Continuing our journey upstream on the Danube, we departed Slovakia and entered the northern part of Austria. Our first stop was the Austrian capital Vienna or Wien; it is about the size of Philadelphia and is made up of 23 districts. The District organization was first started in 1850, with Districts added as the city grew and annexed adjacent communities. District 1 is the Inner City, the original town, and played a key role after the conclusion of World War II. We spent most of our time in this district. There is so much to see and to do that our guides zeroed in on three highlights: Maria Theresa, intellectual and artistic heritage, and coffee houses.
Map of Austria
Austria is a beautiful, seemingly gentle country whose history holds a lot of drama. Occupied by different people since ancient times, the name Austria was first recorded in the 10th century. The Habsburg dynasty accumulated territories during the 14th and 15th centuries, mostly through strategic marriages. The last of the Habsburg monarchs was Maria Theresa, who became the only female Habsburg ruler, following her fathers’ death and ruled for 40 years, from 1740 to 1780. She was constantly embattled by other monarchs (Prussia, France, Bavaria, and others) who couldn’t quite come to grips with a woman ruler. They insisted that she needed to be ‘counseled’ by a man. They waged numerous wars and battles in an attempt to grab parts of her empire. It just wasn’t right for a woman to rule! Today, more than 200 years later, women still need to fight the testosterone squads to hold on to positions of power. She was pregnant for much of her reign, having 16 children – eleven daughters and five sons. War and having children were constants – forcing her to spend a lot of time ruling from her bed. No maternity leave in those days. Her most notable offspring was Maria Antonia, her fifteenth child. Maria was married off to Louis XVII of France when she was fifteen years old and was thereafter known as Marie Antoinette. She was extremely spoiled and selfish, indulging in every possible excess, which arguably, contributed to the outbreak of the French Revolution in 1789. In 1793, she was arrested, tried, and beheaded for crimes against the French Republic.
Imperial Palace
Imperial Palace with statue of Archduke Charles
The imperial palace, in District 1, was started in the 13th century with each subsequent monarch adding another wing, another castle, or an extension. The palace, or Neue Burg Wing is the center piece and overlooks the Heldenplatz, site of the statue of Archduke Charles. During Maria Theresa’s reign, this palace was referred to as the winter palace, the empire’s seat of power. Its role has not diminished and today is equivalent to our ‘White House,’ serving as both the residence and workplace for the President of Austria. Maria Theresa also built a summer palace known as the Schönbrunn Palace about a day’s travel away in the countryside, which we will visit tomorrow.
After Maria Theresa’s death, the Habsburg’s (Austria’s) power began to wane until it was compelled to merge with the Hungarian Empire to form the Austro-Hungarian Empire. This union was rationalized on the need for a common defense and foreign relation strategy, even though they shared little else. The last heir to the throne of the empire was Franz Ferdinand, who was assassinated in Sarajevo in 1914, marking the start of World War I. As the war ended, with more than one million Austro-Hungarian soldiers killed, the empire faded away. Austria wanted to become part of the German Reich. However, the final treaty that ended the war (Treaty of Versailles) explicitly prevented that union. This undercurrent of wanting to be part of Germany continued unabated, culminating in the Anschluss or as Hitler referred to it as “the reunification” in 1938 and approved by popular vote. As such, Austrians have held to the belief, for more than 50 years after the end of WW II, that they were Germany’s first victims . In reality they were co-responsible for the acts of the Third Reich. Austria has definitely been a laggard in coming to terms with their participation in Nazi crimes. A BBC news article written in 2015, describes how just recently the city of Graz finally revealed its dark history. Our local Austrian guides, were very forthcoming with their dissatisfaction of the way the country continues drag its feet in reconciling its history.
Imperial Palace balcony where Hitler announced union with Austria
Hitler announcing the union of Germany and Austria in 1938
One of the most notable examples of hiding their role was Kurt Waldhem, who was the Secretary-General of the United Nations from 1972 to 1981, and President of Austria from 1986 to 1992. During the 1985 election campaign for President, his role and actions during war came to light. He had lied, and buried his horrific participation. The country elected him anyway. It was in line with the country’s refusal to address its role in the Holocaust, refusal to pay compensation to Nazi victims, refusal to investigate Austrian citizens who were notable Nazis, and refusal to return art and property.
Partitioning of Vienna after the War into sectors managed by each of four Allied powers
After Soviet forces ‘liberated’ Vienna from the Nazi’s in 1945, Vienna became part of the Soviet Eastern Austria bloc. The US, UK, France, and the Soviets agreed to divide the city into four sectors – each assigned to one of the powers – similar to what happened in Berlin, except the center of the city, District 1, was designated an international zone, wherein the four powers took monthly turns controlling it. The arrangement held until 1955, when the four powers agreed to cede all control and occupation of Vienna and Austria in exchange for declaring its permanent neutrality and agreeing never to join NATO.
Busy District 1
Today, Vienna is thriving, with a high quality of life. The city was ranked first as the ‘most livable’ city in the world. It was rated as the most prosperous city in 2012, and the top destination for international business conventions. The inner city is buzzing with activities, cafés, and shops. We were struggling to decide where to have lunch – too many choices. We finally settled on a traditional style café, where we ordered one of the ‘standard’ size wieners, and shared it….eating each end at the same time – see the photograph below.
Devouring a wiener in Wien
Recharged, we were ready to walk to the gothic Augustiner Kirche just around the corner from the Neue Burg palace. It was built in the 14th century and served as the parish church for the Habsburg court.
Augustiner Kirche
Inside the Augustiner church
Our final stop for the day was the nearby Albertina Museum, with its permanent exhibit of Monet to Picasso. Sorry….no photos allowed. We had only 45 minutes in the museum – not enough time to do it justice. Not enough time to just linger and get into the moment on a number of amazing paintings. Our visit defaulted to one that we commonly refer to as a Sue Lukrich Fast-In-Fast-Out museum walk through. She would have enjoyed it. We might come back tomorrow, our schedule permitting.
Palais Pallavicini
Ballroom for our gala dinner
Tenor and Soprano performing a duet
Returning to the ship, we had just enough time to dress for our gala evening at the noble family-owned Palais Pallavicini. The setting was spectacular, transporting us back to the 18th century. Entertainment include a 5-member string ensemble performing a set of classic Austrian pieces by Mozart and Beethoven, a ballet, and vocal performances by a tenor and a soprano. While not officially designated as entertainment, the tuxedoed, white-gloved waiters put on their own performance by marching, in-line, each carrying the bell covered course at shoulder height, to deliver them to the tables in perfect synchronization and unveiling the culinary delight. It reminded me of the waiters delivering the hot chocolate in the animated movie Polar Express. It was a special, grand evening.
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